A week in Spain (and some transit on both ends): Part I<\/p>\n\n\n\n
1a. One of the things I love about traveling is eating up all the food in my fridge before I go away. I like calculating the Leftover Arc. How many things I need to eat during the three days, then two days, then three hours before the taxi arrives. It\u2019s a consumption puzzle\u2014an edible enigma, a waste-not Gordian Knot<\/a>. If I\u2019m just going for just a week\u2014like now\u2014I can leave behind a half carton of milk, and eggs, citrus, mayo, and hard veg. Those will keep. But greens and meat and any cooked leftovers need to be finished up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The three-hours-before-the-taxi meal is the weird one. Today it was a bit too much cashew cheese with some puffed corn crackers, and a LOT of grapes. One corner of artisanal (and somewhat dry) qu\u00e9b\u00e9cois cheese, about four tablespoonfuls of black-bean chile, two pieces of steamed cauliflower, one cubic inch of membrillo, and a quarter of a half-litre of still-fizzy kefir. (Shoot. Nope, actually, I forgot to drink the kefir before I left. I guess it\u2019s stable enough for another eight days. Fermented, and all that.)<\/p>\n\n\n\n So the fridge is now in sleep mode. Nothing will rot or drip. The red rice\u2014that will have to get chucked when I get back. I think it was a little rancid anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This was my pre-Madrid meal. The gastronomic set-up for I don\u2019t know what. \u00d3scar has told me that he and his housemate Xara have no food sense and don’t know how to \u2018eat healthfully.\u2019 Spending a week with them will be curious. Delicious and experimental, perhaps. Best-of artisanal Madrid, maybe not. I\u2019ve promised to cook for the two of them, but have no idea what to expect in terms of ingredients and kitchen. It will be yet another partly pre-scripted, partly improvised performance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1b. At the international Maple Leaf lounge in Montreal (renovated, finally, and quite nice), I have a quarter of a glass of someone\u2019s odd Chardonnay, a full glass of their own cucumber-lemon water, and a small handful of edamame. I only have twenty minutes to wait, but I need a little fix of privilege, since for the first time in a while I\u2019m traveling with no e-upgrade. Dreadful. Simply. Dreadful. That one time flying business class ruined me. It was like spending a night between a Victoria\u2019s Secret big spoon and a Davidoff Cool Water little spoon, and then going back to the plastic cutlery drawer of Grindr. (Sorry, TMI? Here\u2019s a distraction: The word \u201cchardonnay\u201d used to not pass through a lot of corporate email filters, because the embedded alpha-string, hardon<\/em>, was considered by early spam software to be dangerously pornographic. But why would you send an email about Chardonnay, anyway?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n 1c. \u201cChicken or pasta?\u201d I also love airplane food. I love deciding between the testicle-shrinking risk of hormone-laden white meat in \u2018cream\u2019 sauce and gut-ballooning, all-Canadian, gluten-enhanced vegetarian penne. It\u2019s another juicy conundrum of transdisciplinary gastronomy. Plus, there\u2019s the truly special gift of getting that <\/em>look from the flight attendant. You know the one\u2014the sneer of Protestant disdain when you ask for a second \u00bc bottle of Assemblage Rouge (a hand-selected grenache-pinot noir-cabernet-mourvedre blend, I believe). That look is my dessert. Sweet, tart, and bitter all at once. Subtle. Balanced. I think AC flight crews are only slightly more shaming than the KLM on-board staff. The Lufthansa gang happily hand over tumblersful of rotwein<\/em>, and the Air Dolimiti ladies practically leave the bottle of prosecco with you (along with a white-bread, ham, aioli, and artichoke sandwich). It\u2019s only the prudish Dutch and Canadians who seem to think that 187.5 mL is just plenty<\/em> for one meal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I also ate some raw cashews, golden raisins, and Mary\u2019s crackers<\/a> (the classic flavour), as a little pre-nosh nosh<\/a>. The very tall and very built pink-and-red man one seat away from me also brought his own snack\u2014some very robust-looking trail mix\u2014which seems to be a necessary calorie-infusion for him. He also eats his in-flight meal. Can\u2019t let those muscles might wither over the next hours.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n 1d. It is 3:30 am Madrid time and they will soon try to feed me aspartame-flavoured strawberry yogurt and an individually wrapped slice of banana bread. I will decline, fearing a bloated belly by baggage claim. Breakfast on AC is the worst. (Wait, what did I just say about airplane food?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n A week in Spain (plus transit): Part II<\/p>\n\n\n\n It turns out I don\u2019t really like writing as a food tourist. Yes, I dutifully kept eating notes while in Madrid, but I think I ran out of glibness. I also felt some weirdness about the colonial tourist gaze. And then it just got hard to keep up with all those meals. Too many, too late in the day, constantly eating when I wasn\u2019t hungry. So here are my notes, at least. Sorry to be a tease. Sorry to be boring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2a. coffee with oat milk, toast with Melis tomato\/walnut spread, olive oil, paleta iberico <\/em>(front-leg ham), halvah, almond biscotti. A jetlag nap on the couch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2b. more paleta<\/em> and Galician smoked cheese, sweet potato chips with \u201cwinter spices,\u201d ros\u00e9 Lambrusco; chicken \u2018Madrid\u2019 (aka stuffed and rolled with veg and cheese) \u00e0 la vapeur with tomato vinaigrette, red quinoa with leftover cardoons, Greek coffee (not Turkish); discussion of bacteria, cooking rules, not wasting the the Thermomix bong water (chicken broth), throwing out the Air Canada banana bread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n 2c. at a crusty retro bar, two glasses of sweet house wine and some microwaved tortilla espa\u00f1ola<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n 2d. back at home, a simple soup made with the leftover chicken broth, spinach, onion, rice semolina, and shaved carrots; herbal tea<\/p>\n\n\n\n 3a \u2013 3d. a blur of jam\u00f3n<\/em>, honey, croquetas<\/em>, bacalao<\/em>, fried piment\u00f3n<\/em>, more croquetas, beer, tostada de<\/em> morcilla<\/em> (blood sausage on toast), middling Rioja, more croquetas, and a bonito tapa (with draft vermouth)<\/p>\n\n\n\n 4a. sweet tortas de chicharrones<\/em> (pork crackling buns) with coffee, a little crossword puzzle, a helicopter floating in the distance<\/p>\n\n\n\n 4b. gin and tonics, reheated chicken and quinoa<\/p>\n\n\n\n 4c. pesto-stuffed gnocchi (bought) in pink sauce (made), sliced tomato, HB egg and breadcrumb topping; salad of roquette and fris\u00e9e with olive oil, white vinegar, honey vinegar; Tempranillo<\/p>\n\n\n\n 5a. just coffee<\/p>\n\n\n\n 5b. a coconut water<\/p>\n\n\n\n 5c. gluten-free rice pasta with yu choy<\/em>, tomato sauce, and leftover egg crumbs<\/p>\n\n\n\n 5d. afternoon snack: chocolate with churros, several slender and salty, one large and greasy; aperitivo: Amontillado, olives, Palo Cortado, cecina <\/em>(cured beef) and mojama<\/em> (cured tuna)<\/a>; dinner: nettle and zucchini soup, Verdejo<\/p>\n\n\n\n 6a. coffee, a piece of cheese, tomato slices<\/p>\n\n\n\n 6b. a coconut water<\/p>\n\n\n\n 6c. supper at home (I perform): cucumber and carrot crudit\u00e9s with hummous; crostini of cashew butter, roasted cauliflower, black garlic; monkfish soup with miso-and-preserved-tofu broth (also in there: rice vermicelli, cod roe p\u00e2t\u00e9, yu choy, cucumber, cilantro); shumai with soy-ginger-vinegar-lime sauce; a blindingly extraordinary 2004 Lan Rioja (another Victoria\u2019s\/Davidoff experience to ruin me forever); Chinese sweet bean cakes and hot-house strawberries<\/p>\n\n\n\n 7a. coffee, panettone, and jam\u00f3n<\/p>\n\n\n\n 7b. aperitivo of stewed pork with peas; Verdejo; pisto toledano<\/em> (caponata-ish) with crispy fried egg, crema de calabazita (zucchini soup), boar stew with fried potato wedges, coffee, chupito (nasty, kiddie-candy flavoured)<\/p>\n\n\n\n
![waste-not Gordian Knot<\/a>. If I\u2019m just going for just a week\u2014like now\u2014I can leave behind a half carton of milk, and eggs, citrus, mayo, and hard veg. Those will keep. But greens and meat and any cooked leftovers need to be finished up.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe three-hours-before-the-taxi meal is the weird one. Today it was a bit too much cashew cheese with some puffed corn crackers, and a LOT of grapes. One corner of artisanal (and somewhat dry) qu\u00e9b\u00e9cois cheese, about four tablespoonfuls of black-bean chile, two pieces of steamed cauliflower, one cubic inch of membrillo, and a quarter of a half-litre of still-fizzy kefir. (Shoot. Nope, actually, I forgot to drink the kefir before I left. I guess it\u2019s stable enough for another eight days. Fermented, and all that.)<\/p>\n\n\n\nSo the fridge is now in sleep mode. Nothing will rot or drip. The red rice\u2014that will have to get chucked when I get back. I think it was a little rancid anyway.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThis was my pre-Madrid meal. The gastronomic set-up for I don\u2019t know what. \u00d3scar has told me that he and his housemate Xara have no food sense and don’t know how to \u2018eat healthfully.\u2019 Spending a week with them will be curious. Delicious and experimental, perhaps. Best-of artisanal Madrid, maybe not. I\u2019ve promised to cook for the two of them, but have no idea what to expect in terms of ingredients and kitchen. It will be yet another partly pre-scripted, partly improvised performance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n1b. At the international Maple Leaf lounge in Montreal (renovated, finally, and quite nice), I have a quarter of a glass of someone\u2019s odd Chardonnay, a full glass of their own cucumber-lemon water, and a small handful of edamame. I only have twenty minutes to wait, but I need a little fix of privilege, since for the first time in a while I\u2019m traveling with no e-upgrade. Dreadful. Simply. Dreadful. That one time flying business class ruined me. It was like spending a night between a Victoria\u2019s Secret big spoon and a Davidoff Cool Water little spoon, and then going back to the plastic cutlery drawer of Grindr. (Sorry, TMI? Here\u2019s a distraction: The word \u201cchardonnay\u201d used to not pass through a lot of corporate email filters, because the embedded alpha-string, hardon<\/em>, was considered by early spam software to be dangerously pornographic. But why would you send an email about Chardonnay, anyway?)<\/p>\n\n\n\n1c. \u201cChicken or pasta?\u201d I also love airplane food. I love deciding between the testicle-shrinking risk of hormone-laden white meat in \u2018cream\u2019 sauce and gut-ballooning, all-Canadian, gluten-enhanced vegetarian penne. It\u2019s another juicy conundrum of transdisciplinary gastronomy. Plus, there\u2019s the truly special gift of getting that <\/em>look from the flight attendant. You know the one\u2014the sneer of Protestant disdain when you ask for a second \u00bc bottle of Assemblage Rouge (a hand-selected grenache-pinot noir-cabernet-mourvedre blend, I believe). That look is my dessert. Sweet, tart, and bitter all at once. Subtle. Balanced. I think AC flight crews are only slightly more shaming than the KLM on-board staff. The Lufthansa gang happily hand over tumblersful of rotwein<\/em>, and the Air Dolimiti ladies practically leave the bottle of prosecco with you (along with a white-bread, ham, aioli, and artichoke sandwich). It\u2019s only the prudish Dutch and Canadians who seem to think that 187.5 mL is just plenty<\/em> for one meal.<\/p>\n\n\n\nI also ate some raw cashews, golden raisins, and Mary\u2019s crackers<\/a> (the classic flavour), as a little pre-nosh nosh<\/a>. The very tall and very built pink-and-red man one seat away from me also brought his own snack\u2014some very robust-looking trail mix\u2014which seems to be a necessary calorie-infusion for him. He also eats his in-flight meal. Can\u2019t let those muscles might wither over the next hours.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n1d. It is 3:30 am Madrid time and they will soon try to feed me aspartame-flavoured strawberry yogurt and an individually wrapped slice of banana bread. I will decline, fearing a bloated belly by baggage claim. Breakfast on AC is the worst. (Wait, what did I just say about airplane food?)<\/p>\n\n\n\nA week in Spain (plus transit): Part II<\/p>\n\n\n\nIt turns out I don\u2019t really like writing as a food tourist. Yes, I dutifully kept eating notes while in Madrid, but I think I ran out of glibness. I also felt some weirdness about the colonial tourist gaze. And then it just got hard to keep up with all those meals. Too many, too late in the day, constantly eating when I wasn\u2019t hungry. So here are my notes, at least. Sorry to be a tease. Sorry to be boring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n2a. coffee with oat milk, toast with Melis tomato\/walnut spread, olive oil, paleta iberico <\/em>(front-leg ham), halvah, almond biscotti. A jetlag nap on the couch.<\/p>\n\n\n\n2b. more paleta<\/em> and Galician smoked cheese, sweet potato chips with \u201cwinter spices,\u201d ros\u00e9 Lambrusco; chicken \u2018Madrid\u2019 (aka stuffed and rolled with veg and cheese) \u00e0 la vapeur with tomato vinaigrette, red quinoa with leftover cardoons, Greek coffee (not Turkish); discussion of bacteria, cooking rules, not wasting the the Thermomix bong water (chicken broth), throwing out the Air Canada banana bread.<\/p>\n\n\n\n2c. at a crusty retro bar, two glasses of sweet house wine and some microwaved tortilla espa\u00f1ola<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n2d. back at home, a simple soup made with the leftover chicken broth, spinach, onion, rice semolina, and shaved carrots; herbal tea<\/p>\n\n\n\n3a \u2013 3d. a blur of jam\u00f3n<\/em>, honey, croquetas<\/em>, bacalao<\/em>, fried piment\u00f3n<\/em>, more croquetas, beer, tostada de<\/em> morcilla<\/em> (blood sausage on toast), middling Rioja, more croquetas, and a bonito tapa (with draft vermouth)<\/p>\n\n\n\n4a. sweet tortas de chicharrones<\/em> (pork crackling buns) with coffee, a little crossword puzzle, a helicopter floating in the distance<\/p>\n\n\n\n4b. gin and tonics, reheated chicken and quinoa<\/p>\n\n\n\n4c. pesto-stuffed gnocchi (bought) in pink sauce (made), sliced tomato, HB egg and breadcrumb topping; salad of roquette and fris\u00e9e with olive oil, white vinegar, honey vinegar; Tempranillo<\/p>\n\n\n\n5a. just coffee<\/p>\n\n\n\n5b. a coconut water<\/p>\n\n\n\n5c. gluten-free rice pasta with yu choy<\/em>, tomato sauce, and leftover egg crumbs<\/p>\n\n\n\n5d. afternoon snack: chocolate with churros, several slender and salty, one large and greasy; aperitivo: Amontillado, olives, Palo Cortado, cecina <\/em>(cured beef) and mojama<\/em> (cured tuna)<\/a>; dinner: nettle and zucchini soup, Verdejo<\/p>\n\n\n\n6a. coffee, a piece of cheese, tomato slices<\/p>\n\n\n\n6b. a coconut water<\/p>\n\n\n\n6c. supper at home (I perform): cucumber and carrot crudit\u00e9s with hummous; crostini of cashew butter, roasted cauliflower, black garlic; monkfish soup with miso-and-preserved-tofu broth (also in there: rice vermicelli, cod roe p\u00e2t\u00e9, yu choy, cucumber, cilantro); shumai with soy-ginger-vinegar-lime sauce; a blindingly extraordinary 2004 Lan Rioja (another Victoria\u2019s\/Davidoff experience to ruin me forever); Chinese sweet bean cakes and hot-house strawberries<\/p>\n\n\n\n7a. coffee, panettone, and jam\u00f3n<\/p>\n\n\n\n7b. aperitivo of stewed pork with peas; Verdejo; pisto toledano<\/em> (caponata-ish) with crispy fried egg, crema de calabazita (zucchini soup), boar stew with fried potato wedges, coffee, chupito (nasty, kiddie-candy flavoured)<\/p>\n\n\n\n7c. afternoon snack: marzipan, yemas de Santa Teresa<\/em><\/a>, mint tea<\/p>\n\n\n\n7d. last supper: Mahou beer; scrambled eggs with flatbread<\/p>\n\n\n\nOn the return flight, I have the chicken again, with some pur\u00e9ed potatoes. Another marvellous assemblage (white grenache, pinot blanc, and chardonnay, or some equally bizarre blend), and the last of the Mary\u2019s crackers and golden raisins. My digestion is by now offline. Way off. I need to drink some soda water and eat some fermented things when I get home.<\/p>\n\n\n\nThe snack-before-arrival is a \u2018hot sandwich\u2019 with either chicken or vegetables. The woman in front of me asks if it\u2019s made with \u201creal chicken\u201d and the flight attendant jokes (maybe) that she\u2019s \u201cnot allowed to say.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"A week in Spain (and some transit on both ends): Part I 1a. One of the things I love about traveling is eating up all the food in my fridge before I go away. I like calculating the Leftover Arc. How many things I need to eat during the three days, then two days, then…Read more<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[6],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-90","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-historic-posts"],"yoast_head":"\nTo Spain and back, but not with love (as it turned out) - bowl<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"One of the things I love about traveling is eating up all the food in my fridge before I go away. I like calculating the Leftover Arc. 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